Most people are aware, at least to some extent, that the agricultural industry is heavily reliant on chemical usage. The full extent of the issue, however, is likely much less understood: in a 2004 report to congress, the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) identified agriculture as the leading cause of water quality impairment of rivers and streams, in addition to being the third leading cause of impairment for lakes, ponds and reservoirs.[1] It is therefore not hard to see why this is among the most important environmental issues the U.S., and the world as a whole, faces going forward.

Leading Sources of Impairment in Assessed Rivers, Lakes and Estuaries
Rivers and Streams Lakes, Ponds and Reservoirs Estuaries
Agriculture Atmospheric deposition Atmospheric deposition
Hydromodification Unknown/unspecified* Unknown/unspecified*
Unknown/unspecified* Agriculture Municipal discharges

The Role of Fashion

On the frontlines of this environmental issue is the fashion industry, which uses cotton—one of the most chemically-reliant crops in the world[2]— to produce nearly half of its textiles.[3] In the U.S., 11 states account for nearly 94% percent of cotton acreage, as shown below.

Agriculture Overview: TX
Total Acres Operated Total Dedicated to Cotton Percent Cotton
130000000 4817000 3.7

Hover over a bar to update the table.

This nearly 8 million acres of dedicated land makes cotton one of the most important crops in the U.S. Unfortunately, though, the amount of pesticide used on cotton is as staggering as its acreage.

Pesticides Applied to Cotton Planted Acres, 2015 Crop Year
Classification Percentage of Planted Acres Most Common Active Ingredient
Herbicides 92 Glyphosate potassium salt
Other 76 Ethephon
Insecticides 40 Acephate
Fungicides 1 Azoxystrobin

The Impact of Pesticides

As seen above, according to the National Agricultural Statistics Service, approximately 92% of all cotton acreage is regularly treated with herbicides and 40% with insecticides.[4] Unsurprisingly, this presents a number of health and environmental risks.

Heads up!

Pesticides are classified by target organism: herbicides target unwanted plants, insecticides target insects and fungicides target fungi.

Glyphosate has been classified as a Category III toxin by the EPA, giving it a label of only "slightly toxic." However, it is important to note that the "EPA uses bird toxicity data as a surrogate for terrestrial-phase reptiles and amphibians and fish toxicity data as a surrogate for aquatic-phase amphibians."[5] This reliance on "surrogate data" has brought the validity of results into question. In a 2013 paper, researchers concluded that "[i]f and how glyphosate-based herbicides and other pesticides contribute to amphibian decline is not answerable yet due to missing data on how natural populations are affected."[6]

Heads up!

The EPA classifies pesticides according to four toxicity categories: I (highly toxic), II (moderately toxic), III (slighty toxic) and IV (relatively non-toxic). You can read more here.

Acephate is also classified as a Category III toxin by the EPA.[7] However, The National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) states that it is moderately toxic to birds, fish, amphibians and bees.[8]

Conclusion

We only covered two of t Some ways in which we can make a difference are as follows.

  • Live more sustainably: We should focus on getting the most out of our apparel as possible. Buy less, use more.
  • Promote transparency: We should raise our expectations of communication about pesticide use and testing. We should encourage more extensive species-specific research.
  • Support eco-friendly products: Whenever possible, we should buy from retailers that emphasize environmental awareness with both their words and actions.

References

  1. National Water Quality Report
  2. The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton - Environmental Justice Foundation
  3. Cotton Farming - WWF
  4. 2015 Agricultural Chemical Use Survey
  5. Technical Overview of Ecological Risk Assessment
  6. Questions concerning the potential impact of glyphosate-based herbicides on amphibians
  7. PAN Pesticides Database - Acephate
  8. Acephate General Fact Sheet